There’s something surreal about spotting a row of paw prints the size of cast-iron skillets stamped in the snow thirty feet from where you’ve been sleeping.
On one hand, it’s exciting to know that we’d come within a distance less than the length of a tour bus between us and Nanor in the wild.
On the other hand, it’s terrifying to know that we’d come within a distance less than the length of a tour bus between us and a polar bear in the wild.
Had it not been for the dogs’ avalanche of low-pitched barks and growls shattering the stillness in the middle of the night and scaring him off, I hate to think what might have happened had any one of us stepped outside in the dark to answer nature’s call unaware of the wilder aspect of nature that had indeed, come to call.
The massive trail of prints leading up to and then away from our camp bears testimony to the fact that there is no word for ‘pet’ in the Tunumiisut vocabulary. Quimmer is a Greenlandic working dog. He lives, eats, and sleeps outside twenty-four/seven, twelve months a year.
Dogs have been an integral part of Eskimo* life for thousands of years serving as hunting partners, guard dogs, pack animals, and more recently, for ferrying adventure seeking tourists across frozen fjords and snow-packed tundra…
Their keen sense for detecting prowling predators, even from a dead sleep, is one good reason for posting these wooly, curly tailed sentries along the village’s perimeter
and around our dog sledding expedition’s first stop over night on Kap Swainson
where I was lucky to be one of the six who hunkered down in the hunter’s cabin and not in tents at the foot of the mountain with the other six.
Although, to be sure, at first I was as much concerned with my eyeballs freezing to my lids in my sleep as being a midnight snack for Nanor. Which, by the way, would no longer be an issue since the planned camping for the next two nights was called off for being too risky with the amount of recent polar bear sitings. But that’s a tale for next time…
* To be clear, with regard to my use of the word Eskimo – I am aware it is considered offensive in some regions and, as a result, has been changed to Inuit.
HOWEVER, I use the word Eskimo with deep respect and a sincere love for the people of the Far North who, in my experience, are kind, open, and welcoming when treated likewise.
Indeed, I have seen Greenlandic Eskimos wear t-shirts that say: I am not Inuit. I am Eskimo – a clear demonstration of the fact that there are twelve tribes in the Eskimo world, the Inuit being one of them. The others are the Tunumiut, Inughuit, the Inuinnaq, Inuvialiut, Inuppiaq, the Juppiaq, Aluuteq, Quutiaq, Aluuteq, Tjuteq and lastly, the Kalaallit of Greenland.
I’ve been told the general name Eskimo comes from the Cree word Askipuaq meaning The-People-Who-Eat-Their-Food-Raw. To this, an old friend often jokes, “I guess you could say we are the inventors of sushi.”
For a short read on the matter, you might want to check out Inuit vs. Eskimo.
To catch up on my complete Arctic adventure thus far, press HERE
Qujanaq to all for stopping by today!
Donna Gwinnell Lambo-Weidner 
Were those huskies on your excursion? Healthy looking critters! The landscape is shockingly beautiful and spare. And speaking of spare, who’s gun is that outside the tent? And finally, I wouldn’t want to mess with those polar bear paws!
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They’re huskies specific to Greenland. Interesting fact: if they leave the country for any reason they’re not allowed to come back. Gun belongs to one of our mushers/hunters…just in case. Amazing adventure for sure.
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Wow, Donna. I can’t even imagine how that would feel knowing you were almost a midnight snack! Am glad you made it through intact. I would’ve been first in line for the warmer cabin too! One post….two things that would make me run……polar bear up close and warm quarters for the night!
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🙂
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Amazing-and holy moly Donna, you are brave!
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Awesome for sure. And there’s always bravery in numbers. Not to mention a few experienced Hunters.
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Those are mighty big paw prints and somewhat scary 😮 The actual paws are even scarier 😀
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They sure were 🙂 I have to say, part of me was kind of happy not to run into a live one, even though we were well protected.
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Great story with loads of useful information on our northern neighbors.
What amazing dogs and people, all adapted so well to this harsh climate.
Thank you Donna
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It is truly a special place with incredible people. Thank you for stopping by Eddie, and for commenting 🙂
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Wow Such beautiful photos. Im going to Greenland in April. Cant wait. May I ask what times of year have you been there?
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I was there last April. Where in Greenland are you going? I’m jealous!
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I REALLY want to hike the Arctic Circle trail. From NUUK. But finding it difficult to get a sense of whether that is possible/safe to do in late April. Thank you for replying.
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Hmm…message an acquaintance of mine on facebook – Adam Lyberth – he’s a guide in Kangerlussuaq. He may be able to give you some advice or even point you to someone who would know. Safe Travels!
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Thank you very much. I will.
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